A sheep is still the emblem of this former 19th century bergerie - a sheepfold - 30 km from Luxembourg, which father and son have turned into a temple of gastronomy.

Claude Phal, a French colonial born in Oran, settled here with his family over two decades ago in a kind of peaceful retreat. At a time when so many star chefs were courting fame, Phal showed astonishing modesty.

After 15 years of working together, in 2000 Claude passed his toque on to his son. Thierry espouses the same clean restrained style as his father, unblemished and without glitter or fanfare. He has no qualms about reworking his father's classics, his innovation spurred by a constant striving for perfection: a quest for precision, flavour and excellence. His cooking is refined, delicate and personal, classic cuisine that has been lightened, even purified. Elegant and straightforward, these are his favourite dishes: foie gras served on a palette four ways, plain and in light aspic, lobster grilled simply with herb butter, tender Challans duck carved tableside and served with curly cabbage… all of which spell great happiness!