All about anchovy > Talking over anchovy

The anchovy plays a central role in the regional cooking of southern France where it is a staple element. Since the Middle Ages, the anchovy has been found on the finest tables of Provence and the Basque country. Fresh, it was a gourmet's delight, while salted it represented an important ingredient in sophisticated recipes. Some fishing ports made it their specialty, and the anchovies of St. Tropez, Fréjus, Collioure, Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Hendaye were particularly renowned until labor costs forced the industry to relocate. In the 17th century, Saint-Jean-de-Luz sent anchovies from the Gulf of Gascony, flavored with olive oil, to Paris, where the best grocers provided them to wealthy clients.