If we had to assign a colour to each spice, some would think of cardamom as being a deeper and stronger green than that of mint. With the wonderfully fresh feeling it provides in flavor and aroma, this little seed is one of my favourites. From a botanical point of view, this rhizome from the Zingiberaceae family falls into two species, elettaria and amonums. The first is present in India, specifically on the mountains of the Malabar coast, where the plants grow in the wild. The harvest of the pisiform fruits takes place twice a year. The amonums grow mainly in Cambodia, and in the heights of Tonkin they are a source of revenue for the small population of "Pohls" who tend veritable wild gardens. In both countries, the fruits are harvested when ripe, then washed and dried in the sun.

These seeds with the penetrating flavour have been valued since ancient times in China and India. They were considered a panacea against a number of illnesses, particularly dysentery. The Arabs brought them back from the East, and the Jewish people, then the Greeks and Romans, adopted them. This spice has rich medicinal properties, particularly for heart problems. It is also often present in toothpaste. Cooks in Europe had almost forgotten this seed; only the Scandinavians continued to use it in their breads and cakes, while in a few German provinces it was also traditionally used in charcuterie.

My preference is for seeds from Kerala. I am passionate about their flavour, but be careful: it can overpower a dish. I like to use it with or instead of ginger, particularly to flavour seafood bouillons and fish in its own stock. You can grind the whole pods in a coffee grinder, but it is best to sift this powder. It's present in a number of Indian and Asian spice mixes, particularly curries and masale. Yogurt or fromage blanc with a pinch of freshly ground cardamom can accompany fish or scallops marinated in lemon. A visit to Turkey provides an introduction to the marriage of coffee and cardamom. In the same spirit, you can use cardamom to flavour a coffee mousse or ice cream.

Personally, I prefer it with milky tea with cinnamon and ginger, a drink the Indians appreciate at any time of day. Finally, if you're really afraid to use it in cooking, save it for the end of a heavy or garlicky meal. It will help you to keep any assignation...