All about partridge > Enjoying

How many people love partridge but lose all interest in the legs that are full of tendons? Here’s a simple little trick to make them tender: make a little cut on each side of the thigh just below the drumstick. Stick a hook or a chopstick three-quarters of the way in between the bone and tendons and turn two or three times. As if by magic, the tendons will wind around the object – you only have to pull to remove them.

Partridge is best cooked in the traditional way – perfectly simply! Season inside and out with garlic, onion, thyme and rosemary. Roast on a spit as they used to do after the hunt. Serve with cabbage slowly wilted in duck fat with a little onion and carrot.

Partridge pairs well with figs. Cut the figs in four, leaving them attached at one end, put a little butter and sugar in the middle and place in the oven for 4 minutes. They’ll open up into a flower. They’re wonderful served hot.

If you’re able to buy some very ripe quinces, cut them into four, leaving them attached at one end, and put some butter, minced garlic and thyme in the middle and place in the oven for 4 minutes. Glaze with reduced juices from the partridge.