There are several categories of syrup. It's a mistake to think that "medium" or "dark" syrup is produced simply by boiling the maple water for a longer time. It's the sugar content, measured each morning in the vat, that determines the syrup's classification and its evaporation time (66 Brix or sugar degrees for maple syrup.) Because of nature's whim, maple water has a high saccharose content at the beginning of the season, at which time it will produce the less sweet light or extra-light varieties of syrup. As the season progresses and the weather turns warmer, the concentration of fructose and glucose increases, and the maple water is turned into amber or dark syrup. Thus the composition of the maple water varies over the collection period, which can last from 2 to 6 weeks depending on the temperature and region. Temperature alone is responsible for these changes and nothing can alter this climatic effect. As soon as the trees show signs of budding, the maple water enters another category, unavailable to the general consumer. It is treated and sent directly to companies that produce maple by-products.

Medium (B) provides a subtle flavor when added to salad dressings or poured over pancakes… but when it comes to cooking, the choice is obvious. You need C (amber) or D (dark) to obtain real depth of flavor.

Since maple syrup is a totally natural product, the flavor and quality vary a great deal from region to region and from year to year like other natural products such as olive oil and wine.

If you stock up on maple syrup during the sugaring season, it's best to store it in the freezer, though room temperature is acceptable. Once it's been opened, store it in the refrigerator to slow down the evaporation process, or freeze it for 1 to 3 months if you will be using it only intermittently, since in a humid environment the syrup tends to crystallize.

Maple butter and taffy will keep for about a month; maple sugar, when well wrapped, can be frozen for up to a year. Just grate some from the block as needed.