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Talking over Turmeric with Olivier Roellinger
Talking over Turmeric with Olivier Roellinger
Olivier Roellinger, Les Maisons de Bricourt, Bretagne
Olivier Roellinger, Les Maisons de Bricourt, Bretagne

Talking over Turmeric with Olivier Roellinger

Originally from Asia, turmeric is an herb that grows two metres high; it is also a rhizome like ginger and a member of the Zingiberaceae family. It has a golden colour and a slightly musky aroma.

This spice has mostly been used as a substitute for saffron and has brought wealth to a lot of cheaters. All over the world, many people carry turmeric to protect themselves from evil spirits. It's most popular in India and Malaysia, but this colour has traveled the world - in the French Caribbean it's known as "safran" or saffron (an ingredient in the famous Colombo) and on Reunion Island as "safran Bourbon."

This golden powder is an essential part of any curry and gives the dish its distinctive hue. I of course use this powder in several mixtures for its colour, but also for its sweetness. Additionally, the starch it contains acts as a light thickener and can correct the excess acidity of certain dishes.

Buying Turmeric
As with many other spices, the quality of turmeric depends on where it is produced. The rhizomes of Bengal and Kerala are the best but those of Java and Sumatra are also of fine quality. During the harvest, long, red-brown turmeric is favoured over round, yellow turmeric. When it is fresh its qualities are more distinctive: a deep strong aroma, and a bitter and peppery flavour a bit like ginger. Today, fresh turmeric is fairly easy to find in Asian groceries.

Cooking Tips
Don't forget to put on gloves before peeling it and cutting it into small dice.

You can add it to diced fruit (peaches, apples or pears).

Personally, I like to use it to add a distinctive touch to steamed fish or shellfish. Adding turmeric to grape seed oil turns it a superb colour. Turmeric is also good for your health - it's been recommended since ancient times in China and India for dermatosis and liver problems. By the Middle Ages, European apothecaries were using it for its therapeutic properties, though it was mainly used to make dyes, particularly the most beautiful green by mixing it with indigo - but that's another story.

 
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