Éric Guérin is the chef at "La Mare aux Oiseaux," a restaurant in La Brière, France. He offers three hints for this recipe:

Add 3 capfuls of Noilly Prat to the water for steaming.

You can substitute salmon or a white fish for the trout.

In the summer, add some diced raw cucumber.

Prepare the trout

1. Cut the trout into 4 equal fillets and keep cold.

Butter

1. Place the half-salted butter at room termperature so it can be creamed.
2. Grate the grapefruit and lime zest, mix into the butter and add a few grains of Guérande sea salt and two grindings of pepper; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Accompaniment

1. Separate the skinless grapefruit and lime segments and dice finely; combine and refrigerate.
2. Finely dice the white bread, then sauté in a skillet with a clove of garlic and some olive oil until golden.
3. Drain, sprinkle with Guérande salt, and keep dry on a paper towel.
4. Cut up the broccoli coarsely and keep cold.
5. Cut the baguette into thin slices and toast them; keep dry.

Cooking

1. Place the trout fillets in the steamer and steam gently.
2. Meanwhile, in a saucepan, melt a large spoonful of the citrus butter, add the Noilly Prat and bring to a simmer.
3. Add the diced grapefruit and lime and the pepper and remove from the heat.
4. In a skillet, sauté the broccoli briskly in some citrus butter, season and set aside.

Presentation

1. Place a fillet of just-cooked trout onto a plate, add the broccoli and drizzle with the citrus butter/Noilly Prat sauce.
2. On the fish, place a few croutons, a few grains of fleur de sel, some trout roe, the caper berries and two or three fresh cilantro leaves.
3. Serve with a toasted baguette slice spread with some citrus butter.