The main thing is to successfully bring out the flavors of a dish, rather than mask them. We ask ourselves what oil goes best with each ingredient, and what the role of the oil is in the dish. Toño Perez has worked a great deal with the sweet "banana and walnut" notes of Manzanilla Cacereña oil, obtained exclusively from the olive variety of that name. "This extra-virgin olive oil, manufactured by traditional methods in the province where I live, is one of five classic mono-varietals that are protected by a Designation of Origin. Very stable and golden yellow in color, it is magnificent with quickly-seared foie gras, served with a soy, hazelnut, truffle oil and balsamic vinegar sauce.
"This olive oil from Estremadura, raw and cooked, is green and as fruity as a fruit juice. I use it in all kinds of dishes. But there are certain requirements when using an oil with such a strong character. Used on its own, it is wonderful for preparing escabeches and confits that require a very long, slow cooking.

"On the other hand, it requires a little 'adjustment' when used in desserts. You simply have to heat the oil gently with some lemon or orange zest or a vanilla bean to get rid of the bitterness. That's how I use this oil to fry pestinos and coquillos, which are local pastries. The vanilla-scented oil is incomparable poured over Torta del Casar cheese.

"Are you familiar with this cheese, made close to where I live? The town of Casar de Cáceres gave its name to one of Spain's best sheep's milk cheeses which, once ripened, has the distinctive feature of usually being formed into a kind of flat cake (torta) with a liquid interior and a hard rind that allows the cheese to flow out when cracked. The sheep's milk from which it is made is curdled with thistle flower, and it is then left to age for 60 days. The thin rind splits under the pressure of the proteolysed, spreadable, creamy, almost liquid paste. Its color is yellowish, and its flavor - mildly salty and acidic - and aroma are unique. All of this makes it a truly extraordinary cheese. It weighs between 500 and 1100 grams. It is traditionally eaten as an appetizer or served at the end of a meal. Personally, I serve it as a dessert, spread over dried fruits, topped with Torta ice cream and surrounded by a ribbon of homemade quince paste… all drizzled with vanilla-scented olive oil, of course!"