In the markets of Nice, local producers hawk their products in the local “Nissart” dialect. Socca sellers transport their large flat rounds, made from chick pea flour, that look like enormous browned pancakes, in two-wheeled carts topped with a big zinc box that keeps the socca warm. In little cafés throughout the city, slices of socca are eaten at wooden tables with a glass of the chilled local rosé wine.

In Italy, just over the border from the southern French city of Menton, socca is extremely popular and is called “picha.” It’s a traditional mid-morning snack for workers, and a common street food for strollers at any time of the day.

1. Make the batter by combining the water, oil, flour, salt and pepper;
2. whisk well to eliminate any lumps; pour through a strainer;
3. pour a thin layer (2 to 3 mm / 1/8”) onto an oiled baking sheet;
4. let rest a few minutes;
5. place into a very hot (preferably wood-fired) oven or under a broiler preheated to high;
6. pierce any bubbles with a fork as they appear;
7. remove from the oven when well-browned, even with a few burnt spots;
8. sprinkle with freshly-ground pepper; cut into squares and serve hot.