Two kinds of penne, smooth and ridged, are used because of their different capacity for absorbing the sauce: each takes on a distinctive character and together they provide the perfect background for the various sensory experiences of the dish as a whole.
- Place the finely chopped celery, onion and carrot into a saucepan with the butter over medium heat and let cook for 10 minutes. Add the white wine, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Let reduce over low heat until thickened. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
- Briefly sauté the cabbage in a skillet with a little oil. It should retain its crispness. Keep warm. Cook the two types of pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Meanwhile, cut up the eel, remove the bones and flour it. Fry in very hot oil, flavouring it with the rosemary sprigs.
- Chop the citron peel finely and cook in three changes of boiling water. Toss in caramelized sugar. When the peel becomes firm, remove from the heat and sprinkle with fine salt.
- Cook the penne in the sauce for a few minutes, add the eel and the crispy cabbage and garnish with the candied citron.
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